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Vehicle specific radio fitting hints and tips:
2006 On Yaris (aka 2007 model).
By Brian MW0GKX.

I fitted an Icom IC-2800 into my 56 plate Toyota Yaris and many people have asked if it was a factory install. The answer, of course, is no but the surprise shown on their faces tells me I did a good job!

This is not a step-by-step guide as the amount of Yaris owners that want to fit an IC-2800 won't be that many, more of a 'this is how I did it'. If you pick up a few pointers from this article that's good. I do include, at the bottom, step-by-step on how to remove the various bits of trim though.

the radio

For those that don't know the IC-2800 it is a VHF/UHF dual band radio with a seperate head unit that contains a 3 inch multi function TFT color LCD display and the speaker. The microphone connects to the main unit only. Esentially there are 2 boxes to fit and somewhere for the microphone to plug in.

In my previous car the main unit was fitted under the front passenger seat but in the Yaris there was not enough room unless I wanted rear seat passengers to have an expensive foot rest! (The jack is stored under the front passenger seat!) I found space in the spare wheel well by moving the wheel slightly and securing it to one side of the well leaving just enough room for the main unit beside it.

the control head

I had already made an extended microphone lead with a socket on it (about 7 meters long, way too much but it is better to fold it back on itself than have 3 inches short!) for the previous car so that was fine but the lead for the head unit was nowhere near long enough to go to the location I had chosen for the head. Having extended the head cable so that it was more than long enough (about 9 meters!) to go from the radio to the head location I fitted it to the radio, along with the microphone cable then behind the trim panels in the boot (see Notes at the bottom for trim removal), along the door sills (front and rear, it's the 5 door Yaris) excess length is 'stored' here, and behind the front kick trim.the fitted mic socket, with the plug inserted Here the microphone and head cables parted, the head cable going up past the dashboard, up the 'A' pillar along the top edge of the windscreen to the location of the double map reading light (now removed) where the head was to go.
The microphone cable went across the underside of the dashboard (avoiding the 'knee blocker' air bag) and to a point I had found a rectangular knock out just about the size of the microphone socket. I affixed the socket in place with epoxy cement, the type that softens when it gets very warm so I can remove it in 5 years time when I change car.

the mic stowed on its hookthe hook for the mic To hang the microphone when not in use I found, in my junk box, a metal 'P' clip (from an old PC monitor) that I modified by cutting across the loop and folded the long end over on itself (at an angle so the microphone hangs level) so that it would grip the plastic trim panel next to the radio (see Notes at the bottom for trim removal), rounding off sharp corners and smoothing the cut edge to lessen injury risk completed the job.

This picture (click on it for a larger image)
shows the detail and, just below, the foam rubber pad I used to stop the microphone rattling.


cables, now you see them ...... now you don't!



The power cable was run through the car the same way as the
head and microphone cables and,


as you can see, once the trim is
replaced all is safe, secure and hidden. I only ran the positive lead
through the car, ground being connected in the rear near the main unit.


Luckily the Yaris (and other Toyotas, I'm told) have extra mouldings on the firewall wiring grommets to accomodate after-market wiring. In the picture (below left, click on it for a larger image) you can see the moulding protruding at about the 2 o'clock position. All that is required is to snip off the end and pass the wire through, sealing against water ingress when the wire is in place.

the rubber mouldingpower cable fed through the moulding In the picture on the right you can see the brown power lead for my wheelchair hoist going through the snipped end, the red radio lead uses the same hole but is behind the brown lead.
No, I wasn't upside down, this grommet is on the other side of the car.




To fit the antenna I decided to drill a hole in the roof. Looking at the inside of the roof lining there is the mount for the centre 3 point seatbelt to the right of centre (as you look in through the tailgate) and as I didn't really want to remove and refit that I chose the other side for the antnna. I eased the roof lining down (see Notes below) and felt inside to find where everything was and where the roof was single skinned, you would be surprised what is up there, airbag, strengthening bars, wiring, sliding sun roof rails & motor (not on this car though) etc.

Having decided where the hole was to go I placed a piece of masking tape on the outside of roof in the area to drill. I rechecked the location (inside) and marked a point on the masking tape where the hole was to go. I then drilled the hole, taking care not to go too far and hit the (lowered) roof lining. I cleaned up the hole, removed the tape and sanded the inside to bare metal for the ground contact. I fitted the SO239 mount (coax pre connected) through the hole, placed a rubber washer on the top and screwed the nut down tight.the antenna mount I should mention that I used an SO239 mount that was designed for sheet metal mounting, it had a flange approx 1¼ inch (3 cm) in diameter integral to the body of the mount and the top nut is round, again about 1¼ inch across, with flats for spanners to tighten the assembly, some mounts don't have the flange/large nut and would require washers to spread the load.
the antenna mounted

Once the mount was tightened I ran the coax around the roof lining and down the side of the tailgate opening, tucking it behind the trims as I went (there was enough room and movement for this as the rubber seal was still off) ending up with the coax going under the floor trim to the radio. The coax was cut to length and a PL259 was soldered on.
While I still had everything loose I attached the antenna and checked the SWR (all done at the back of the car with the microphone plugged directly into the radio, as it also has the radio controls on it). SWR was within limits (below 2:1) on both ends of both bands, dropping in the centre each of the bands, so I replaced all the trim, removed the microphone (plugging in the extension lead) and replaced the spare wheel cover and all the trims etc.

Suki inspecting the work
Suki, the shack cat (only member of the family
without a licence), gives a final inspection.

In use all is well, the controls are easy to reach from both front seats (Denise, my partner, is licenced as well) and, while I do have to reach across to the passenger side for the microphone, that is within easy reach too. The only problems I have encountered are received interference on the Icom from the electric mirrors while I adjust them and to the broadcast FM radio when transmitting on 2 meters (well look how close the antennas are!). Other than that all systems seem to work OK while transmitting and, apart from the mirrors, no interference is received from vehicle systems. One reason for this could be the fact that the coax stays right at the back, away from the vehicles CPUs/ECUs.

Notes:



To remove the sill trims:
1 The sill trim panels just pull off, they are clipped to their mounts.

Replacement Line up the tag on one end with its hole and push down.

The sills on the Yaris have space especially for cables, this is very useful!

To remove the front kick trim:
1 Remove the sill trim (above).
2 Pull the rubber door seal off from the kick trim.
3 Pull the kick trim away form the body.

Replacement is the reversal of removal. The rubber seal needs to be knocked back into position with the flat of your hand or a rubber mallet.

To remove the 'A' pillar trim:
The 'A' pillar trim on my (T3) Yaris uses special clips at the top of the pillar because of the curtain air bags mounted in the roof edge. The way to remove the pillar trim without breaking these (single use, if you ask Toyota) clips is:
1 Open door, pull rubber door seal off of the A post and leave hanging (or remove trims {sill and kick panel} and fully remove rubber seal).
2 Place your fingers into the gap revealed where the seal has been removed and pull the pillar trim away from the pillar at the bottom, it is held by a plastic 'popper' which can be quite hard to 'unpop' (if you find the trim is bowing outwards without popping off, move closer to the end of the bow, this is where the popper is, and try again). Now do the same at the top but VERY carefully, as soon as the top one 'gives' stop pulling.
3 The top clip is designed to break (for the air bag, you will see SRS marked on the trim where the clip is) and when you pull hard the clip WILL break requiring a trip to the dealer for new a one, here's how to save your pennies: The trim will move a small amount as the top popper unpops. I then managed to get my fingers behind the trim and rotate the top clip through 90 degrees (quarter turn), this lets you slide the rectangular lug out of the hole in the trim and the trim then comes away.

Replacement is the reversal of removal, as they say:
Place the rectangular hole over the top clip then turn back through 90 degrees so they are in original position before pushing the trim back on. The rubber seal needs to be knocked back into position with the flat of your hand or a rubber mallet.

To lower the roof lining (front):
1 Remove pillar trim first (above).
2 The sun visor comes out by pulling the plastic trim cover off the hinge - roof plate, unhooking the inner end from its hook and pulling the visor down.
3 Remove the hook from the roof by turning 90 degrees and pulling down. The roof lining can now be eased down to run the cable(s).

Replacement is the reversal of removal.

To lower the roof lining (rear):
1 Open the tailgate, pull rubber door seal off of the surround.
2 The roof lining has some round headed 'poppers' to hold it up, you can buy a tool for these or you can gently prise them out. The roof lining can now be eased down (be careful at the rear pillar though, I found that I had enough room/movement, but then I am used to this type of thing).

Replacement is the reversal of removal, the 'poppers' just push straight in. The rubber seal needs to be knocked back into position with the flat of your hand or a rubber mallet.

To remove the trim at the side of the radio (microphone hanger):
1 Pull the trim out at the bottom, then ease out working upwards. Disconnect the wiring connector for passenger seat belt / airbag warning lights (if fitted).

Replacement is the reversal of removal, the wiring connector will only fit one way.

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